The states of NE India bear little resemblance to the rest of the country. In the hills above the Brahmaputra River valley, the tribes live semi- autonomously, and from time to time hostilities break out between tribesmen and the government. The elders wear tattoos that had more meaning decades ago when headhunting and the kidnapping women were part of life. Face tattoos and nose plugs are illegal now and the past is losing its hold on the young. The gentle tattooed women of Atapani tribe in Arunachal Pradesh and the once fearsome warriors of Nagaland are living to see the 21st century level their differences.